A Beginners Guide to Basic Care of Soay Sheep The first thing we suggest you do is to find a more experienced shepherd near you who you can call in case you have an emergency in the middle of the night. It is always comforting to have someone who can walk you though a problem or assure you that your panic is unfounded. Soay are easy keepers, ideal for beginners and seldom have problems, but when you are new to the sheep everything can seem serious. If you can't find someone close to you, we are always available and only an e-mail or phone call away. Bringing your sheep home, the role of stress in a Soay's life. An often-overlooked factor in the welfare of a primitive sheep is the role that stress plays in its life. The importance of minimizing stress cannot be over emphasized. When the animals arrive at your farm isolate them in a secure, quiet location where they will feel protected, able to relax and begin the adjustment to their new environment. A closed barn stall is an excellent location for this. There they can become accustomed to new noises and smells and begin to bond with their new home and the new flock-mates that may have arrived with them. This will also serve as a quarantine (which is always a wise idea when bringing new animals onto your farm.) It should be an area with good ventilation, fresh water and feed and clean bedding. Ideally it will also be a place where you can observe, but not handle them. Remember, to the sheep you are still a stranger. Initially make as few changes to their daily lives as you can, duplicate the feed and supplements from the original farm as much as is practicable and gradually shift them over to your own feed. (We recommend a good grass hay rather than alfalfa, especially with rams.) As soon as you are comfortable that the sheep have formed an attachment to their new home (generally within a week or two) you can turn them loose into their pasture. Access to their bonding quarters will provide a safe place to escape when startled or frightened and should continue to be made available from their pasture if at all possible. A Soay can very easily jump a five foot fence, but if it feels secure (in its barn or shed) it is not inclined to do so. For a more in depth discussion of fences and housing see http://www.soayfarms.com/shelter.html. If you have livestock protection dogs introduce the dogs and the sheep in a smaller enclosure before turning them loose together. When you cannot be there to supervise it is advisable to secure the dog, especially a puppy, in a pen adjacent to the sheep where it can have contact through the fence. This will allow the two to get acquainted while protecting both from possible aggression or rambunctious puppy games which can lead to either an injured puppy or sheep. Soay, like most animals, are creatures of habit and you will discover they develop a daily routine in their lives. You can use this to your advantage and gradually help them become more comfortable with your presence. We generally feed about the same time each day, for example, and they quickly learn to associate us with dinner or breakfast. The sheep also soon realize that a bucket usually means treats. We use either COB (Corn, Oats & Barley with or without (dry) molasses), whole oats or ewe and lamb pellets. This can be fed by hand or placed in a feeder. Be careful not to over-feed grain, something that is very tempting to do. A quarter of a cup or so per animal per day is sufficient. They will begin to associate you with treats and gradually become friendlier. Place hay in a feeder off the ground if at all feasible. A 33-gallon plastic container works well for this, as do a variety of styles of hay mangers, which can either be built at home or obtained commercially. Trace minerals should also always be made available. We use sheep salt with selenium added because Oregon is Selenium deficient. Check with your local extension agent if you have any question about selenium in your area. Be certain that any supplement is copper free. (Copper is toxic to primitive sheep.) Handling your Soay Sheep (You can never move too calmly or have too many gates) Soay are shy by nature, but they are also extremely curious and you can use this to your advantage in handling your sheep. Gaining their confidence is important and as mentioned earlier a bucket of grain is a wonderful way to begin this process. We have also found that it is much easier to lead a Soay sheep (with a bucket) than it is to chase it and chasing it is the fastest way to loose it's trust; once lost it is hard to regain. Sheep pellets work especially well because they make a loud rattle and just one shake of the pail now brings our Soay flying out of the woods down to the barn. A well thought out barn design (or modifications of your existing barn) and good barnyard layout can save much heartache and often avoid disasters later on. Visit as many farms as you can before bringing your Soay home to learn how others work their sheep, pick every brain you can find, some ideas will be good some will be good examples of what not to do. Create spaces where the sheep will feel comfortable coming and going and create a small area for catching them. When designing your barn and paddocks, it is very useful to plan a couple of small adjoining pens or catch pens between fields with gates between them. Ideally these will be areas where the sheep must normally pass through on their way to their hay or treats. By luring them into the pen you can quietly close the gate behind all of you and now they are secured. Keep your movements slow and easy and don't make any sudden noises to startle them. Portable panels, such as cattle panel, commercial light weight panels in the US or hurdles in the UK are extremely useful for then squeezing the mob into a tight space. Now you do not have to chase them, but can reach into the group and catch the animal you want to work with. On a precautionary note be sure that when your small pens are not being used for management purposes they do not become a trap where one aggressive animal can corner a weaker one. Either leave all the gates closed or all of the gates open so that there is an escape route.   The sheep are gradually moved with a series of gates to increasingly tighter quarters where they can be quietly handled. They have been lured into the first pen with ewe and lamb pellets in the feeding trough on the ground When working with the sheep will require their confinement planning ahead makes everyone's life much simpler, especially when working with rams. If you are shipping animals, you have your vet scheduled to visit your farm or if you are just going to work with the sheep, lock them up with their hay the evening before at their normal feeding time. By the time you are ready in the morning they will be relaxed and the experience will be less stressful. On larger farms with large and/or multiple fields a dog will be needed to move the sheep to the barnyard. In spite of rumors to the contrary a number of Soay keepers we know use dogs that have been trained to work with Soay.  Joe works the Soay at Gaerllwyd Rare Flocks in Wales Obviously there are times when an emergency situation requires drastic measures, and an animal has to be chased and captured in any way it can, often an escapee lamb, but whenever possible try to deal with the sheep in a calm and quiet manner. Your sheep will be happier and so will you. Keeping your animals healthy The first question the vet will ask you is, "does the animal have a temperature? "A normal sheep temperature ranges between 100.9 to 103 (Average 102.3 degrees.) A temperature over 104 degrees may be indication of a possible illness (see footnote). Use a digital thermometer (rectal) to determine if it has a fever. You will also be asked to describe any other symptoms; be as specific as you can. Often the vet will instruct you to try one of several initial treatments before you are advised to take the animal to the clinic and having a basic first aid kit is very helpful at such a time. Over the years, we have accumulated a number of things that we now always keep on hand in case of emergency This is by no means intended to be a complete list, but rather a basic beginning; things that have worked for us: Our basic First Aid Kit All of the following are available at most feed stores or by catalogue. see catalog suppliers for a resources.
For lambing season we also always have on hand Tincture of Iodine, 7 % for treatment of newborn’s umbilical cord and occasional cuts and abrasions Empty pill vial for iodine Lamb milk replacer (many brands are available) Deliver granule/powder added to milk replacer to help with scours in bottle lambs Pritchard teats (nipples for lambs) and a 500ml plastic soda or water bottle Ewe or goat colostrum preferably collected fresh then frozen or a powdered form such as Nurse Mate available from Pipestone Vet Supply Clean towels Vitamin A & D for newborns BoSe- which we get from our vet because selenium is such a problem in our area In the event of an injury or an illness (not a contagious illness) it will be important to have a way to transport the patient to the vet (a dog crate) and/or a place where you can isolate it in the barn to rest and recuperate undisturbed. Sheep, like any herd animal, become very stressed when isolated from the flock and so a place where it can be protected but still see, hear and smell its flock-mates is very important. Again Cattle panel is very useful for this if you do not have a permanent fence dividing your barn. It comes in 48"h x 16’ lengths, is available at most feed stores and can be cut with bolt cutters to fit any size that you need. Several livestock equipment manufacturers such as Shaul's Mfg. also make "light weight panels" that are 40" tall x 5' long with 7 rails. These pin together for maximum flexibility and ease of movement and two in a corner or four free standing will make a comfortable isolation pen. (These are generally available at livestock shows.) This will physically separate the sheep, but allow it to not feel alone. You will find that this often plays an important role in a successful recovery.  Shaul's Mfg. light weight panels 40" x 5' with 7 rails Routine Maintenance Routine maintenance is an important part of keeping any livestock animal and is the best way to insure its good health. The Soay requires much less maintenance than more domesticated sheep. One of its primitive characteristics is that it sheds or molts its wool annually (in the late spring and early summer) eliminating the need for shearing. It's tail is also naturally short and thus does not require docking. The genetic make up of this breed is also so diversified that it is better able to cope with whatever nature throws at it making it more resistant to disease and more adaptable to a variety of environments and climates. This however, does not mean that it is maintenance free. Its nails need an occasional trimming, it will need to be wormed and, as a precaution, it should be vaccinated annually. When getting ready to do these chores, keep in mind how stressful such activities are on the sheep. The use of a small 5’ x 5’ or smaller catch-pen or a chute is very helpful, as it will minimize chase and capture. Vaccination Trimming feet: In our experience some sheep grow nails faster than others and therefore require a trim more often, but as a general rule we trim hooves once a year when we vaccinate. Providing a rough surface for the sheep to walk on will help keep the hoof worn down and in some cases eliminates the need for trimming at all. We have had very good luck with ¾ minus driveway gravel. It packs down much the same way as pavement does but provides a rougher surface. Keeping it cleared of debris will increase its effectiveness and allow you to go for longer periods between trims, if it does not eliminate the need for trimming completely. For clipping hooves we recommend Magic Toe Shears. They are lightweight, fit comfortably in your hand and are easy to use. Feet are easier to cut in the spring and winter when the ground is wet and the hooves are soft. Trimming Rams horns Like everything else with the Soay, ram horns come in a variety of configurations, they range from tight to wide curls but most have plain spirals that curl past the face usually not completing a full circle. Horns, like trees, develop distinct age rings adding a new ring each year during the growth cycle (approximately March to September) until growth slows or stops all together at about age five. The greatest growth rate occurs over the first six months and then slows in succeeding years. Quite often Soay in both the US and the UK have horns grow into the neck or skull. Unless they are actually rubbing the skin or pushing hard enough into the face to cause discomfort this will not cause the ram any harm and it is not a characteristic they necessarily pass on to their offspring. But when they abrade the tissue or crush into the jaw they need to be cut. With a conservation program this simply becomes a maintenance issue and trims become part of an annual maintenance routine, just like trimming feet. A ram should never be culled from a conservation flock solely because of tight horns. Horns continually move (get closer or further from the face) through out the animal's maturation (about 5 or 6 years) and those that appear too close in the spring may pull away by the end of the summer. Conversely horns that appear to be wide at maturity can also tilt and push into the face as the animal gets older. We have used a number saws for cutting horn, but have finally settled on an OB wire saw. Wire and handles can be found on line at http://www.valleyvet.com/index.html .Be careful not to cut too far back up the curl as bleeding can be a major problem. Horns take a lot of abuse over the life of a healthy Soay ram and as they age
they begin to breakdown, (you will find this with ewes as well). This is simply a part of
the aging process and while they become brittle and can easily break off they aren't a
problem. However those convenient "handles" that we are not supposed to grab can
no longer serve that purpose. note decreasing distance between the rings where growth rate has slowed as the animal has aged Thurso age 7 Tucker age 8 Shedding/Shearing One of the Soay’s primitive characteristics is that it molts its fleece annually. Rams begin to shed in early spring after the rut and ewes begin shedding after lambing in late spring and early summer. The current thinking is that hormones and body condition control molting. We have discovered that some rams, wethers or ewes that have not lambed do not always cast their fleece. The wool can be rooed (gently hand plucked) or clipped with Friskar soft touch shears or sheep shears. For their comfort in the summer heat, where our temperatures often reach 100 F or higher, we roo or shear those with retained fleece. Its removal is also advisable in areas where fly-strike is problem. Breeding and Lambs and OAPs (Old age pensioners)  Bachelor rams, winter 2007 Rams and the Rut: a.k.a. the breeding season Like wild sheep the Soay goes through an annual rut in the fall. Breeding generally begins in mid-October or early November. As a very general rule the rut (on our farm) lasts into February, however, some rams may be active much of the year. Outside of the breeding season rams seek the company of other males and when put in a field with both sexes generally gravitate to other rams where they get along peacefully. In the fall however, it is a different matter, behavior begins to change and levels of aggression increase. As much as two months before breeding they begin chasing and butting each other as they compete for dominance. Skirmishes increase in frequency and intensity as days grow shorter and the weather gets cooler and serious fights can occur. Charging and butting with their horns is the only method of assault that sheep have, they are good at it and they can kill one another. One must be very observant and cautious when around rams at this time of the year and plan ahead when they need to be worked. If a ram has become too tame he will loose his respect for humans as the flock leader and treat them as he would any other adversary. We have found that keeping a larger group of males as a bachelor flock is easier to manage than just keeping just two or three, even during the rut. Head butting and bashing do still occur, but to a much less serious degree and they seem to be less of a threat to humans. Cuts on the face and swollen eyes are common, but generally they are not serious. Cracked horns and deep cuts or leg injuries do obviously require some attention. Be very careful about introducing a new male member to the flock at this time of the year, your rams are a social group and may gang up on a single stranger. When sorting breeding groups (we generally use three or four rams in our program) the selected rams are taken from the bachelor flock and put in with their assigned harems, the remaining males stay together as a group. It is important to keep this group as far from breeding flocks or non-breeding ewes as possible, ideally out of sight from the other, if possible on another part of your farm. For standard and conservation breeding programs, when using several rams, it is important that each breeding group be separated into individual pens. These can be adjoining but they must have some form of visual barrier between them. A variety of materials can be used: plywood, tarps or cloth weed barrier that works as a curtain have worked very well for us over the years. keep rams from pestering each other when kept in adjoining pens. It is readily available at feed stores and garden centers, is easy to hang on an existing fences and is much less unsightly than plywood or tarps. It is also used by researchers on St. Kilda to line the netting used to catch sheep for tagging so that their view is blocked and they can not see a way out. Be certain there are no "peep" holes in the wood or sheeting, Soay are very curious and seem to love "peep" holes where they can watch what is going on in the pen next to them. These barriers probably will not be sufficient protection however, if you are keeping a flock of non-breeding (open) ewes next to a pen with any rams. Ewes will seek out a ram when they are receptive and can tempt a male to jump the fence. With adjacent breeding groups this hasn't been a problem because all open ewes are serviced immediately by their own ram. If distance or a visual barrier are not used rams will bash each other through the fence and the force of the impact can destroy both the fence, including 4 x 4 fence posts and potentially seriously injure themselves and their opponent. Observation and common sense will minimize all of these potential problems and while the rut is a time of caution it does not have to be a time of dread. When it is time to remove the rams from their harems and re-introduce them to their bachelor flock several methods can be used. We have found our easiest re-introductions have been when we have bred late in the season and we are re-introducing boys in late January or early February. At this time of the year hormone levels have generally dropped and they are more interested in eating than fighting and we have simply been able to turn them loose together. Again having more than fewer also seems to help. In a case where one must re-introduce rams while still in rut we have confined all of them in a small shed 8' x 8' shed (sometimes smaller) and left them locked up for up to a week with only hay and water. By the end of the week they all smell alike and can't distinguish one from the other. If they are still serious about fighting when they are finally turned out lock them up and start over again. In some instances, especially when we have only had two rams, we have had to put a hood or mask over their faces so they could not see each other directly. This prevented them from backing up and charging. We remove the rams from lambing ewes for security reasons. Sometimes rams will be fine with new lambs, but they are often stimulated by the scents of birthing fluids and will chase and harass the ewe trampling a newborn lamb in the process. As a precaution we keep rams away from the ewes at lambing time. Lambing and lamb care One British Soay keeper boasted to her neighbor (a fellow sheep breeder) that the only equipment she needed for lambing season was a pair of binoculars. We have found that this is not much of an exaggeration. The gestation for Soay sheep is approximately 142 to 152 days with 148-150 days average and lambing only occurs once a year. Middle age females often twin and very, very rarely have triplets. Some ewes twin with regularity and some only ever have singles. Intensive studies on Hirta have led researchers to conclude that there is a correlation between twinning rates and body weight, heavier ewes have a higher percentage of twins than lighter ones. [Clutton-Brock, 2004]. The Soay ewe is an excellent mother and only very rarely has a problem. However, one should always be prepared for the unexpected. It is wise to begin the lambing season with a few items on hand; colostrum and a few days supply of lamb milk replacer (both available in powder form from the feed-store- if you do not have access to frozen sheep colostrum), a Pritchard nipple, a bottle and tincture (7%) of iodine. We also keep on hand a bottle of injectible Bo-Se from the vet and vitamin A & D (from the feed store). It is very important that the ewe clean the sack off her newborn lamb herself, in so doing they bond and learn to recognize each other. Do not panic as this farmer did when she discovered a wet newborn out in the field and rushed to dry it off. Be observant, but do not be too eager to rush in to help, Soay mothers generally know what they are doing and are good at it; only intercede if you can see there is something drastically wrong. The afterbirth, including the placenta will be hanging from the ewe and will pass within a few hours. Let it pass naturally, do not attempt to remove it. If it has not passed within 24 hours call the vet, you may need give the ewe a hormone shot. Do not cut the placenta shorter as its weight hanging may encourage it to drop off naturally.  Processing a new lamb (ear tag, shots, weight, iodine) We always try to remain calm and quiet and involve the mother in the process photo by Carol Fraley, Windriver Soay Sheep As soon after delivery as you can (but after the mother has cleaned it) catch the lamb and immerse the umbilical cord up to the abdomen in 7% tincture of iodine. This is a simple precaution that will reduce the risk infection. We have found a prescription pill vial filled with the iodine is ideal for this, the stump will drop down into it and you do not have to turn the lamb over to apply it. If the stump is so long that it touches the ground, we trim it a bit. On the advice of our vet we also now give each lamb a .25cc injection of Vitamin A & D and a .25cc injection of BoSe because selenium deficiency is such a problem in our area, but as with all medications, consult your own veterinarian to see if he/she feels such treatment is appropriate. We also tag lambs with baby ear tags just after they are born so we can identify them later. When all of this has been done return the baby to its mother and let them continue the bonding process. The lamb should be standing very shortly after birth and will begin to nurse almost immediately (within an hour). Often you will not see this occurring and think it is not getting nourishment. If it can stand, walk and appears alert and is getting stronger, it is being well cared for by its mother. Occasionally a newborn get off to a slow start and appear weak (often a twin). When we have had such a situation we segregated the ewe and lamb/s so that curious flock mates would not trample it. As soon as the baby was sure on its feet the family was returned to the rest of the herd. We do not routinely jug the ewes and lambs (isolate them in small pens) unless such a situation has occurred because social interaction among these sheep is so important to them.
It is not uncommon for a ewe to reject a twin or for a
young ewe to reject her first lamb. Sometimes a mother simply cannot produce
enough milk to feed multiple offspring and in this case you may have
to supplement the ewes milk with milk replacer. Do not disturb the lamb when
it is nursing, but if it is obviously still hungry it will sometimes also
take a bottle, but only offer it after it has successfully nursed.
If the ewe will not let the lamb nurse confine them in a small pen and
restrict her movement with something like a head gate (which holds her from
moving forward or backward) and give her hay and a little grain as a
distraction. This can give the lamb a chance to work out getting its first
meal without her moving away from it. In the case of twins, where one is
larger and getting most of the milk place it in a small pen (wall off a
corner of the jug) beside the mother but where it can't reach her after it
has eaten and leave the smaller lamb with the ewe. Watch them all very
carefully and after the smaller one has nursed return the bigger twin.
Continue to watch them closely. If none of this works and the ewe simply rejects her lamb
entirely you will need to care for the newborn
yourself. Orphaned lambs are
referred to "bummers"
or "bottle babies" and it
is important to have lambing supplies
on hand before the season begins for just such a case.
If the baby has not gotten colostrum from its
mother (which it must get with the first 24 hours of birth), it will need it
from an outside source, ideally fresh or frozen (thawed in a warm water bath
not in the microwave) from another ewe (or goat) or a powdered form such as
Nurse Mate which available from
Pipestone Vet Supply. Every effort should be made to
provide 10 percent of the lamb's body weight with this "first milk" over the
course of the first 24 hours and the sooner it is started after parturition
the better. After that you will need to switch to
lamb milk replacer
(many brands are available, but Pipestone Vet Supply has an
especially good one). Do not mix colostrum and milk replacer, finish one
then start the other allowing some time in-between the two. Feedings should
be every two hours the first few days, four times a day after that,
eventually reducing that to three then two and finally one until it is fully
weaned at between ten and twelve weeks of age. Try to spread bottles out
evenly over the course of the day so that the first feeding is very early in
the morning and the last one shortly before you go to bed. A quarter of a
cup at each feeding has worked well for me in the
very beginning, but that will increase as the lamb
grows, it should be getting between 10-20 percent of it's body weight in
milk a day depending on temperature and its condition for the first four
weeks or so. Then you will start gradually cutting back. Be careful not to
over feed at any one time. Under feeding can also be a problem and if the
lamb has an arch in its back, cries excessively or shivers it if is cold it
is probably not getting enough milk. The most common problem I have had is
diarrhea (scours), which can have a number of causes, but is often due to
too much or too rich a formula given in too short a time. If you suspect
this is the cause reduce the amount given at each serving (increase the
number of servings if need be). Mixing the milk replacer with a little more
water than suggested so it is not so rich (2 1/2 cups instead of 2) and
adding 1/8 tsp. of
Deliver granules
(a supplement for calves) to 3/4 cup of formula will often control the
problem. If it does not consult your vet. While a lamb will start picking at
hay within a few days of birth it will be four to six weeks before it's
system will be adequately developed to digest roughage but it will be ten to
twelve weeks before it can live exclusively on a diet of hay and be
completely weaned. To take some pressure off the mother
a commercial creep feed can be started for
the lambs when they are about six weeks old. Serve this in a creep pen into
which the lambs can pass, but the ewes cannot. Bottle babies become very tame and when artificially raising ram lambs handle them as little as possible and curb your temptation to make pets out of them. A very tame ram lamb can grow up to be a very disrespectful adult that sees you as simply another adversary to be challenged. These can be dangerous and if you simply cannot resist temptation and this does happen your best option will be to neuter him. Baby shots Worming babies
Weaning
Banding -Castration (neutering ram lambs) Miscellaneous As a browser you
will find the sheep does eat the bark of some trees and if there is a tree in its pasture
that you do not want eaten you will need to protect it. There are various methods of doing
this, but we have had success with chicken wire loosely wrapped around the tree. Make
certain that you leave enough room for the tree to grow and that the wire goes up high
enough so that it will be beyond the reach of the sheep when it stands on its hind legs to
grab at a tasty morsel. Shipping your Soay (How do I get my Soay Home) Before your sheep can leave your farm they will need proper scrapie identification (ear tag, tattoo or microchip) from the USDA (see scrapie ear tag note below) and a health certificate from your veterinarian. This will require you to take sheep to the vet or to have the vet come to your farm. Each state has different requirements for admitting sheep into their state and your veterinarian can contact them to find out what test may be required. Usually animals less than six months old have fewer regulations. Travel is very stressful for the Soay and we try to reduce that stress as much as possible. We only ship lambs commercially in the fall, when temperatures are cooler and they have been completely weaned and their vaccinations and initial worming are a month behind them. If adult sheep require worming, be certain that it is done a number of days (a week) before and not on shipping day. As a precaution we also give each of our animals a bit of Probios paste as we put them on the truck. When the sheep arrive at their destination they should be isolated from other stock on the farm and if at all possible not be separated from their travel companions. Let them adjust to their new environment before they are further stressed by separation. A Note about
the USDA Scrapie ear tags and shipping sheep Some
thoughts on biosecurity Conclusion Suggested Reading Parker, Ron, The Sheep Book: A Handbook for the Modern Shepherd, Revised and updated, Athens, Ohio, Ohio University Press. ISBN 0-8040-1032-3 Simmons, Paula and Ekarius, Carol, Storey's Guide to Raising Sheep, Breeding, Care, Facilities, Storey Communications, Pownal, VT, ISBN 1-5-8017-262-8 Weathers, Shirley A., Field Guide to Plants Poisonous to Livestock, Western U.S., Fruitland UT., Rosebud Press, 1998. (Rosebud Press: P.O.Box 270090, Fruitland, UT 84027-0090) ISBN 0-9660397-3-4 Whitson, Tom, D., editor, Weeds of the West, University of Wyoming, Western Society of Weed Science, revised 1992 ISBN 0-941570-13-4 Castell, Mary. Starting With
Sheep available from Country Smallholding,
Winter, Agnes C. and Hill, Cicely W.A. Manual of Lambing Techniques.
Ramsbury, Marlborough: The Crowood Press Ltd. 2003 ISNB1-86126-574-3 Resources on the Internet We have included a number of resources which we have found very helpful on the links, literature and suppliers pages of this website. Links - Literature - Supplies- Viewpoint is our free monthly farm e-newsletter which has some additional information, with a monthly feature article, calendar, tips of the month and resource list , sometimes recipes, related to the feature topics. To subscribe e-mail kathiem@soayfarms.com
Supply companies Jeffers Pipestone Veterinary Supply *Click on online Resources, type in Biosecurity, click on Biosecurity Footnote:Simmons, Paula, Raising Sheep the Modern Way, Updated & Revised Edition. Pownal, VT, Storey Communications, Inc. , 1989 p.189 Clutton-Brock, Tim and Pemberton, Josephine, ed. Soay Sheep, Dynamics and Selection in an Island Population,  The End |
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